Last summer I had the pleasure of a brief meeting with Avelino Santos, Vice President of Premium Portugal Wines. Portugal has had a long history of wine making dating back to 2000 BCE and was one of the first (1758) to regulate their wine making regions (now totaling 55 DOCs), long before France in 1855 for Bordeaux and later the AOC system in 1935. It is a relatively small country, just 600 kilometres long and 200 kilometres wide, yet with more than 200 native grape varieties, it is a land well worth exploring. During the last 30 years, primarily since Portugal joined the European Union, there has been a notable shift from traditional to more modern winemaking methods. Along with that has come a move to better quality wines.
People tend to associate Portugal with one of two extremes. The outstanding delicious sweet after diner Port wines in all their various forms – Ruby, Late Bottle Vintage, Tawny and Vintage Ports to name just a few. These range in price from $20 to several thousand for the rarest. The other end of the spectrum are the easily quaffable inexpensive ‘starter’ wines – Mateus, Fascia, Lancers, Vinho Verde, and a host of other easy-drinking affordable red and white dinner wines which start at under $10.
In Portugal, as is the case in the rest of Europe, wines are named after their region, rather than by grape variety which is the fashion in new world countries.
What most people are unaware of, is that there is another tier of Portuguese wines. Premium wines. This is the niche that Avelino and his company have focused on and he is eager to spread the good news. They represent 14 new producers with 40 wines from the following six regions, Alentejo, Bairrada, Douro, Lisboa, Setubal, and Vinho Verde. These wines carry a price point of $24 to $175, with the majority of them in the $24 to $50 range. They, “. . . represent small producers, focusing on sustainable practices, care for the terroir and very low intervention in the winery with great quality.”
Two wines served as my introduction to this portfolio. The first was from Rama & Selas, a relatively new venture (2012) from Bairrada, a region well known for its clay soils and sparkling wines. It is a collaboration between two long established families – Jorge M. Rama and Antonio A. Ferreira Coelho Selas. The vineyard is about 15 hectares in size and the soil is primarily composed of clay and limestone. They grow Chardonnay, Bical, Arinto, and Sauvignon Blanc, all white wine grapes, while red wines are made from Baga, Touriga Nacional, Merlot, Syrah, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tinta Roriz.
2016 RS Blanc de Noirs
12.5% ABV
$23.99
This traditional method sparkling wine is made from ‘Baga’, a traditional grape from the Bairrada region. Golden yellow with hints of copper and medium intensity. Lime leads the aromas followed by bramble, baked apple and Chinese five spice. Well balanced with good mousse. Lots of flavour on the palate followed by a medium-plus leesy finish. Look for this wine at your favourite private liquor store.
The second wine, Vale das Éguas White comes from the southern region of Setubal, 170 kilometres south of Lisbon, not far from the moderating cool winds of the Atlantic Ocean. This allows the grapes to ripen slowly, preserving acidity and freshness. Soils here are varied and compromised of limestone, clay, loam, four different types of schist, chalk, and sand. The estate dates back 150 years. The Branco (white) is a blend of Fernão Pires, Antão Vaz, and Arinto. They also make Tinto, a red blend of Touriga Nacional, Alicante Bouschet, and Syrah.
“All viticulture at Herdade do Cebolal is organic and they use several interesting methods to enhance the soils including gathering seaweed from the nearby Atlantic and employing sheep to keep weeds trimmed and for the manure. To combat the effects of climate change, they are creating an agroforest around their vines which provides shade and sequesters rain water in the soil. They also keep bees so it’s important not to spray insecticides or use chemical herbicides.”
2016 Vinho Branco
13.5% ABV
$24.99
Bright yellow with medium-plus intensity. The nose is an interplay of lemon, white peach, honey and beeswax. Very good balance and a creamy texture. Very pleasing on the palate with flavours following the nose. A medium-plus finish with a slight apricot pit bitterness on the finish, making it an ideal food wine. This wine really improved with time to breathe.
You can find a variety of Premium Portugal wines at the following Vancouver and Lower Mainland private liquor stores:
The Sutton Place Wine Merchant
Outpost Liquor Store (Maple Ridge)
New District Wine, Beer & Spirits
8th Street Liquor Store: (New West)
Legacy Liquor Store (Olympic Village)
High Point Liquor Store
Marquis Wine Cellars
Clayton Liquor Store (Surrey)
Village Tap House Liquor Store (West Van)
Sheraton Wall Centre Liquor Store
Libations L. Store (Shaughnessy)
Liberty Wine Merchants (West 10th)
Liberty Wine Merchants (North Van)
Liberty Wine Merchants (Langley)
El Dorado Liquor Store (Squamish)
Liquor Discounter (Surrey)
Kitsilano Wine Cellar
Firefly Fine Wines and Ales
Horseshoe Bay Community Spirits (West Vancouver)
Liquor Depot at Crossroads (Nanaimo)
Langara Liquor Landmark (West 57th)
Viti Wine & Lagers: (Seymour St.)
Popkum Country Market (Rosedale)
Queen’s Liquor Store (New West)
Everything Wine – River District Crossing
On Vancouver Island, look for them at:
Liquor Depot at Crossroads (Nanaimo)
Vintage Spirits (Victoria)
Vessell Liquor Store (Victoria)
Cork and Barrel Spirit (Victoria)
Esquimalt Liquor Store (Tudor House) (Victoria)
The Strath Ale, Wine & Spirits (Victoria)
Beacon Landing Liquor Store (Sidney)
Big Rock Liq. Store (Campbell River)
Village Liquor Store (Gabriola Island)
Spinnakers Beer & Wine Merch. (Victoria)
Cascadia Fine Wine, Spirits & Ale (Parksville)
Elsewhere:
Victoria’s LRS (Lillooet)
Big White Beer and Wine (Big White)
Black Fish Licensed L. Store (Gibsons)
Inland Gifts, Liquor & Beer (Kitimat)
Liquor Warehouse Foothills (Prince George)
For more specific information contact:
Avelino Santos – Vice President Wines avelino@nullpremiumportualwines.com
On the web: www.premiumportugalwines.com
Or follow them on the following social media platforms:
Facebook: PremiumPortugalWines
Twitter: @premiumptwines
Instagram: @premiumportugalwines
(All photos, except as noted – Sam Hauck)
