The Italian Trade Commission periodically hosts trade tastings across the country to show off producers often unknown in this country. I have always enjoyed attending and over the years, I have continued to be impressed with the quality of the wines presented. The best part for me is to try wines from regions that I am unfamiliar with.
This was their 28th year of bringing Italian wines to Canada. They began on the West Coast with an event at the Vancouver Club. Afterwards, the tour continued on to Calgary, Toronto, and Montreal. Canada has always proved to be fertile ground for Italian wines. We are the 5th largest market for Italian wines with Quebec, and Ontario, leading the pack and Alberta and BC following.
Thirty-four producers came to Vancouver. This walk-around event was very well attended by sommeliers, restaurant owners, wine directors, private collectors, and wine shop owners.
Italy is a fascinating country for any wine lover as it is home to over 500 varieties of grapes with more than 300 being suitable for winemaking. Wine scholars love travelling the country and trying the wines unique to each region.
For some years their reputation was for simple, sometimes harsh wines as ‘tradition’ was the rule of the day. In recent decades that has changed dramatically. Winemakers have experimented with different, non-native varieties, better vineyard practices, and an attitude of ‘less, but better’. Many have embraced sustainability practices. They are not sitting idly and the wine world is paying attention.
I started off seeking out some regions I wanted to focus on and then tried some impressive wines that colleagues had recommended. The sad reality is there is simply never enough time to get to all the tables I’d like to have visited so I am sure I missed out on more than a few standouts.
Here are some of the best wines that I was able to taste. Due to the time crunch, I have relied on descriptions from the producers for some of the wines.
San Felice
Tuscany
Il Grigio Chianti Classico DOC 2019
80% Sangiovese
“Fairly complex, but still bright, with spiced red plums and cherries, bark, leather and a hint of mushroom savoriness. Quite integrated and silky with a medium to full body rounded by firm but velvety tannins. Long, yet subtle and fruit-expressive.”
Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione DOCG 2019
80% Sangiovese
“Deep ruby red. The round bouquet releases fragrances that linger beautifully, with scents of sweet violets that meld into smooth spicy hints of tobacco leaf. This is a full-bodied red, velvety smooth marked by ripe succulent tannins harmoniously integrated with the acidity.”
Campogiovanni Brunello Di Montalcino DOCG 2018
100% Sangiovese
“Maturation for 36 months in 500 litre French oak barrels and in 60hl Slavonian oak followed by a further 12 months in the bottle. Expressive nose of olives . . . plum stones, tomato leaf, capsicum and spice box. It’s full-bodied with firm slightly chewy tannins. Structured and well-framed with polished spice notes to close.”
Casale Del Giglio
Lazio
Petit Manseng 2022
Thanks to my good friend Kristof for pointing this one out to me. This was my first experience with this variety and I was impressed. Simply delicious. With peach, apricot, citrus and spice notes.
“Originally from France, the Petit Manseng grape was planted for the first time in Central Italy by Casale dei Giglio in their vineyard. The result is this amazing White with a brilliant straw-yellow colour and an inviting aroma. Fruity and spicy on the nose while fresh, crisp, and flinty on the palate, this wine is exquisitely structured with a seductive, fruit-filled finish.”
Marchesi Di Barolo
Piemonte
Marchesi Di Barolo Sarmassa 2016
100% Nebbiolo
This wine is elegant concentrated and full-bodied with aromas and flavours of dark berries, plums, cherries, black tea, tobacco, spice, and vanilla.
Amastuola
Organic Fine Wines
Puglia
Negroamoro IGP Salento 2020
100% Negroamaro
Garnet red with deep intensity. The nose is inviting with aromas of cherries, plum, and dried herbs. Medium-plus body. A good example of this grape.
Amastuola Centosassi Primitivo 2021
100% Primitivo
AKA Zinfandel. Blackberry, strawberry, plum, cherry, and spice. A slightly warm finish.
Ilatium Morini
Veneto
Ilatium Morini Amitor 2021
Garganega 85%, Trebbiano di Soave 15%
Quite delicious and refreshing. Thanks to John Schriner for recommending a stop at this table.
“A young, fresh wine with intense aromas of flowers and citrus fruits. Highly drinkable and ideal at any time of day.”
Ilatium Morini Amarone DOCG Leon 2018
Corvina 35%, Corvinone 35%, Rondinella 20%, Croatina 5%, and Oseleta 5%.
Rich and flavourful – blackberry jam, dark cherries, spice, mocha and vanilla.
Cantina De Carpi E Sorbara
Emilia Romagna
Piazza Grande
Lambrusco di Sorbara and Lambrusco Salamino
How did I miss a bottle shot of this one? One of the most interesting Lambrusco wines I have tasted.
“Light rosé colour with intense, fresh and floral aroma, the flavour with strong personality, is well balanced, with clear memories of small red fruit, fine persistent perlage.”
(All photos – Sam Hauck)
