Quinta do Noval Tasting in support of D.I.C.E.D Culinary School
Do you know Quinta do Noval Naçional?
The Port House is one of the oldest in the Douro Valley, dating back to 1715, and arguably one of the greatest. The legendary ‘Naçional’ stands among the most collectible ports in the world, with the 1931 vintage considered the finest port ever produced! All Quinta do Noval’s Vintage Ports are made from a single vineyard, ideally situated on a steep terraced hillside overlooking the Douro River, where the vines thrive to produce the highest-quality fruit. Within the vineyard, the famous Naçional is crafted from a rare 6-acre plot of ungrafted vines — an anomaly in wine regions thanks to a tiny North American louse called Phylloxera that decimated Europe’s native vines in the late 19th century. To combat the pest, vintners turned to grafting European vines onto American rootstock, a vine that has a natural resistance to the insect. Quinta do Noval managed to save their best plot from Phylloxera, and there is a belief among Port aficionados that the non-grafted vines enhance the wines complexity.
In addition to Naçional’s uniqueness, is its scarcity. Unlike many other wines, vintners do not make Vintage Port every year. Instead, the wine must undergo a strict declaration and certification process by the IVPD (Institute of Port and Douro Wines) to ensure that the quality of that year meets the “exceptional” standard. It is rare to have more than three vintages declared in a decade. When a vintage is declared, only 200 to 300 cases of Quinta do Noval Naçional are produced, making it one of the most sought-after Ports for the cellar.
On November 7, 2025, I had the pleasure of attending a private tasting featuring nine vintages of Quinta do Noval, six of which were the Naçional. The event was hosted by Jim and Milena Robertson, leaders of the International Wine and Food Society Vancouver Branch, at their home in Coal Harbour, in support of Don Guthro and his Vancouver-based online culinary School, D.I.C.E.D (Diverse Innovation in Culinary Education Development).
Since 2020, D.I.C.E.D. has been actively training students. At the heart of the program lies the aim of making education accessible to everyone, whether they live locally or remotely, and regardless of their socio-economic background. Guthro uses his other business ventures—such as a catering service, a food truck, a knife manufacturing company, and the former D.I.C.E.D. kitchen at Jericho Beach—to help support the program. The school aims to keep tuition fees below $1000 per student, a fraction of the cost of other professional cooking schools, and scholarships are available for disadvantaged youth. To qualify for the program, students must work full-time at a partnering restaurant. Theory is delivered online through lectures and videos, while a mentoring chef supervises practical exams. At the end of the 44-week program, students can challenge their Level 1 and Level 2 professional cook certification through SkilledTrades BC. Of note, in 2023 Guthro received Vancouver Magazine’s Lifetime Achievement Award for his contributions to the city’s culinary scene.
The Port event commenced at 10 am with the opening of a 2000 Princes De Venoge Champagne, compliments of Jack H. Segal Managing Director of Seacove Premium Wine & Spirits, and a serving of canapés. There is truly nothing quite like champagne in the morning, especially while mingling before a breathtaking view of Coal Harbour and the North Shore Mountains. It was also a delight to be welcomed by a charismatic man who introduced himself as Cristiano van Zeller, the former owner and winemaker of Quinta do Noval. Van Zeller’s family has worked in the Port business since 1620, which makes Cristiano the 14th generation of one of the Douros oldest Port families. His family sold Quinta do Noval to the AXA Millésimes Group in 1993. Still, Cristiano van Zeller continues to work in the industry with various projects under the umbrella of Van Zellers & Co to which he owns. Cristiano generously donated a bottle of VZ 1888 Vintage Port to the D.I.C.E.D. cause for auction at a later date.
After the reception, van Zeller, along with Vancouver’s own Leagh Barkley, winner of the 2022 Master of Port Canada competition, guided us through a curated tasting of nine vintage Ports. The experience offered fascinating insights into the production of Vintage Port, vintage comparisons, and the wines evolution over time. Unlike tawny ports, which are blended from multiple vintages and aged in barrels for decades before bottling, Vintage Ports are bottled after only two to three years in wood. They need time—often decades—for their character and complexity to develop, but are renowned for their concentrated fruit, spice, and earthy notes.
My notes on the vintages follow:
1997 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
Medium ruby with a slight garnet rim. Lots of plum on the nose, herbaceous notes, and a scent that reminded me of wet asphalt on a hot day. Cassis on the palate, tar, and a slight bitter note that I didn’t mind.
1997 Quinta do Noval Naçional Vintage Port
Medium ruby straight to rim. Much fresher on the nose than the Noval, with plenty of
blackberry and cassis. Great concentration on the palate, with flavours of cassis, strawberry jam, fig, and spice. Will develop further.
1994 Quinta do Noval Naçional Vintage Port
More depth in color than the 97. Seems closed on the nose and palate, but still plenty of blackberry and cassis. Great structure, but will need more time.
1975 Quinta do Noval Naçional Vintage Port
One of the weaker wines of the flight. Medium tawny in colour. Aromatics of orange, walnut, hints of sandalwood, and maple with the same on the palate. Lacked complexity. Drink now.
1970 Quinta do Noval Naçional
Likely the favourite of the flight. Medium tawny with a distinct nuttiness on the nose, floral notes, and spice. On the palate, a perfect autumn dessert! Fig, prune, baked pear, and cinnamon. Fantastic length! Would love a bottle of this in the cellar.
1966 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
Medium tawny but without the depth of the 70 Naçional. Strawberry/raspberry compote on
the nose with vanilla and rose. Lovely silky texture on the palate, with flavours of raspberry, caramel, and anise. Medium + length with a nice touch of nuttiness on the finish.
1966 Quinta do Noval Naçional
Another favourite of mine! Dark tawny colour with toffee and plum notes on the nose. Flavours of blackberry, coffee, toffee, and a touch of lemon rind. Velvety and round in the mouth with an exceptionally long finish.
1964 Quint do Noval Naçional
Medium tawny colour. Lots of citrus, spice, dates, and fruit cake on the nose. Similar flavours on the palate with a touch of walnut and bitter orange on the finish.
1963 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port
Unfortunately, the weakest of the tasting. Very pale compared to the others. One-dimensional on both the nose and the palate. Time to drink. Likely past its prime.
Afterwards, Milena Robertson prepared a delicious lunch of chicken and chouriço in red
wine sauce with roasted baby potatoes and green beans. A selection of wines from Portugal accompanied the meal, including the JOYA white, 2004 Curriculum Vitae CV made by Cristiano van Zeller, and a magnum of 1997 Porta Dos Cavaleiros from Dao. Oh, and I cannot forget pastéis de nata for dessert! Heavenly! I’m very grateful to the Robertsons for their generous invitation to this exceptional event.
