Fort Berens has just released three new wines alongside three offerings in their Reserve series.
While many people are familiar with Fort Berens wines, I’m often surprised by how few have actually visited the winery. Lillooet is steeped in history. As one of the earliest towns in the province, it played an important role as a supply and trading centre during the Gold Rush. While some still like to search for gold, ranching, farming, and the wine industry now play prominent roles in the region.
All of these wines, crafted by winemaker Alex Nel, are Lillooet VQA wines. This region has impressed people since its formation in 2004. Similar to the Okanagan Valley, it has long, hot summers and cooler nights, which help ripen grapes while maintaining the balanced acidity vital for well-balanced wines. The hot temperatures and dry climate minimize disease and pest problems, reducing the need for vineyard interventions. The gravelly soils—the result of glacial till and alluvial deposits—promote drainage and encourage roots to burrow deep. Add to this the slopes that reflect the day’s warmth back onto the vineyards at night while providing good air circulation, and the Fraser River, which moderates temperatures and provides air flow. All of these factors are perfectly suited to growing wine grapes.
Weathering the Storms
The winter of 2021–22 saw temperatures drop to record lows (–25.7°C at the end of December), yet the vines showed little winter damage. The summer was hot and dry with temperatures in the mid-to-high 30s, and the growing season extended well into fall, resulting in beautifully ripe and balanced wines.
The following year, late December temperatures dropped even lower to –26.4°C. This time there was considerable damage as the fall had been long and warm, and winter hit in a flash, not leaving the vines time to shut down, harden, and prepare. The 2023 harvest was only one-third of a normal crop. Fortunately, the summer and fall growing conditions were good.
Early January 2024 saw another severe cold snap, this time dropping to –24.9°C. Another punch in the gut, and once again only about 30% of a normal harvest.
To deal with the reduced volume and dwindling bottled wine reserves, Fort Berens, along with several other wineries, brought in fruit from Washington State. These wines became the Here and There series, helping to bridge the supply shortfall.
This latest release includes a very limited 2024 estate-grown offering.
This past year has seen the team focus on retraining the surviving vines and inter-planting where vines were missing. The harvest gods have smiled this year—both the Dry Creek and Red Rock vineyards are looking great. The 2025 harvest was good, bringing in about 90% of a normal yield. These grapes looked excellent, so keep your eyes out for the 2025 vintage.
Look for a new Blanc de Noir sparkling wine scheduled to debut in 2028—good things take time.
With the 2025 harvest, Fort Berens has been certified as a Sustainable Wine growing vineyard and winery. Since 2022, the team has worked towards this goal, making wines in a way that honours the land, supports the community, and ensures long-term sustainability. Only a small number of BC wineries have achieved this recognition. It’s about balance—environmental, economic, and social sustainability—and leaving the land better than they found it.
The Wines
2022 Cabernet Franc Reserve – $43.99
Made from 88% Cabernet Franc and 12% Cabernet Sauvignon sourced from both the Dry Creek Vineyard (54%) and the Red Rock Vineyard (46%). A two-day cold soak resulted in good fruit extraction prior to fermentation, with punch-downs every four hours. The wine aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, 61% new and 39% second fill.
With rich notes of dark fruit like cassis and blueberries, graphite, and dark chocolate, this Cabernet Franc Reserve is well-rounded and full-bodied with a beautiful, lengthy finish. Ready now, it will peak from 2025 through 2027. With proper cellaring, you can age it until 2030. Enjoy this versatile wine on its own by the fireplace or pair with a juicy grilled steak or eggplant Parmesan.
2022 Merlot Reserve – $39.99
100% Merlot from both the Dry Creek and Red Rock vineyards, following the same protocols as their other Reserve red wines.
An elegant Merlot showing a combination of dark plums, mulberries, and blueberries with hints of vanilla. Medium-full bodied with a soft, smooth structure and a juicy finish.
2023 Chardonnay Reserve (White Gold) – $34.99
Made from 100% Chardonnay from the Dry Creek Vineyard. After a long, slow ripening period, the grapes were picked in September at optimal ripeness. Half were whole cluster pressed, while the other half were crushed and left on the skins for four hours before pressing, adding varietal character and a rich body. The wine was cold fermented with wild yeast before aging in French oak barrels for seven months (16% new, 33% second fill, and 51% neutral). Partial malolactic fermentation added complexity.
On the nose, lemon zest, stone fruit, roasted nuts, and hints of honey blossom dominate the aromatic profile. On the palate, it shows a rich, buttery mouthfeel combined with fresh acidity and well-integrated oak. This full-bodied, well-balanced Chardonnay has a beautiful, long finish. Ready now and can be aged until 2028. Ideal pairing with chicken supreme with cream sauce or whole roasted cauliflower and halloumi cheese.
2024 Small Lot Pinot Gris – $27.49
100% Pinot Gris from the estate Dry Creek Vineyard and Winch Spur vineyard in Lytton. The grapes were handpicked, destemmed, and crushed, then left on the skins for four hours. Dry ice reduced contact with oxygen, and the juice was cold settled for 24 hours before racking, increasing structure and aromatics. The wine was cold fermented (11°C) to enhance aromatic quality, then aged for four months on the lees to create a creamy texture.
A vibrant and aromatic wine featuring notes of tropical fruits, white pear, melon, and passion fruit. A refreshing wine with a creamy texture, crisp finish, and lingering tropical flavour. Well-balanced and perfect for any occasion. Delicious on its own or paired with grilled chicken Caesar salad, vegetable pasta, or sautéed seafood.
2024 Small Lot Grüner Veltliner – $25.99
100% Grüner Veltliner from the Red Rock Vineyard. The grapes were hand-picked and gently whole cluster pressed before going into neutral French oak barrels. The wine fermented naturally in oak, followed by four months of lees contact, resulting in a complex, aromatic wine with great mouthfeel and complexity.
A refreshing wine showing granadilla (sweet passion fruit), kiwi fruit, and limes on the nose with hints of oak. On the palate, find a creamy texture, a hint of roasted nuts, and a long, fresh finish. Pairs beautifully with freshly shucked oysters, Greek salad, or freshly baked bannock.
2024 Pinot Noir – $34.99
Made from 100% Pinot Noir from the Dry Creek Vineyard. The grapes were given extended hang time to achieve optimal ripeness. After a two-day cold soak, the grapes were inoculated with a Burgundian yeast strain. Three pump-overs a day provided gentle extraction. The wine was then aged for six months in neutral French oak barrels.
A fruit-forward Pinot Noir featuring bright red fruit with notes of raspberries and strawberries. This medium-bodied wine has a mild tannin structure and fresh acidity on the finish. Enjoy now or allow it to evolve with further aging through 2030. Pair with sautéed mushroom gnocchi or pan-seared duck breast.
* Wine notes are courtesy of Fort Berens
(All photos – Sam Hauck)