In addition to the weekly wine review and the various other, usually wine-related, articles I write for My Van City, I am going to include a new one that will appear from time to time. I’m calling it, ‘From the Cellar’.
It will be similar to the wine reviews, except that it will feature wines that have been aged. I am a big advocate for aging BC wines.
It came to my attention that in an earlier review, I included a wine that is no longer made by a certain winery. They were very happy with the mention and my positive comments, but they were concerned someone might try to track down a bottle and be disappointed when they found it wasn’t being produced any longer. So, from now on, I will keep the Wednesday Wine Review to recent vintages that should still be available and From the Cellar for those that I have to blow the dust off of. There are no hard and fast rules. A few years ago, I bought a couple of reds at my local private liquor store that were ten-year-old vintages (and at their release prices!). While most people drink what they buy in a matter of days, if not hours, more and more people are realizing the benefits of holding on to some of their wines and are enjoying the benefits of doing so.
Prices indicated are the costs when purchased.
NV Cuvee Brut
Piper Heidsieck
Champagne, France
$38.97 (350ml)
Golden yellow with medium intensity. Big aromas of lees, honey, dried fruit, toffee, yellow apple, autolysis, and pie crust on the nose. Very good balance with fine mousse. The palate shows flavours of sponge toffee, apples, lemons, melon, and peach followed by a medium-long finish with flavours lingering. Very yummy! A great match for oysters, smoked salmon, mushroom sauced dishes or popcorn.
94 Points
2017 Roussanne
Church and State
Oliver, BC
$34.49
Roussanne usually appears in a Rhone blend along with Marsanne and Viognier, so it is interesting to see it as a stand-alone. Golden yellow with medium deep intensity. The nose shows aromas of Meyer lemon, melon, apricot peel, chamomile, brioche, minerality, and beeswax. Very good balance with full body. Big on the palate with flavours mirroring the nose followed by a medium-long toasty finish. Lovely accompaniment to crab or lobster. Full disclosure, I had ever intended to age this wine for so long, it just happened. Fortunately, it was well made and aged beautifully.
94 Points
2019 Cabernet Franc
Fort Berens
Lillooet, BC
$31.99
Garnet red with medium-deep intensity. Cherry, dusty herbs, black currant, plum, black pepper, earth, and a touch of raspberry on the nose. Very good balance with silky tannins. The flavours reflect the nose followed by a medium-long finish. Perfect for a roast beef dinner.
93 Points
2020 Merlot
Rust
Oliver, BC
$25.45
Garnet red with medium-deep intensity. An aromatic nose with black currant, cherry, cinnamon, earth, leaf, plum, chocolate, and touches of leather and cashew. Very good balance with smooth tannins. Mouth-watering on the palate with flavours of dark cherries, floral notes, baking spice, raspberries, and plum followed by a juicy medium-long finish. A big wine like this, cries out for a blue cheese steak. I hope I have another in the cellar.
94 Points
2013 Three
Sandhill
Kelowna, BC
$40.00
One of winemaker Howard Soon’s creations. Unique and distinctive barrels of wine make up the Sandhill’s Small Lots Program. Only ten barrels were made of this interesting blend of 60% Barbera, 30% Sangiovese, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 20 months in American and French oak. Mahogany red tinged with brick. Medium-deep intensity. Beautifully aged with rich aromas of black fruit, dark berries, plum, dried leaves, sweet spice, game, leather, and a touch of menthol. Well balanced with silky smooth tannins. The palate reflects the nose followed by a medium-long finish. A mature, complex and harmonious wine, perhaps hitting its peak one to three years ago, but still delightful.
96 Points
(All photos – Sam Hauck)