I left Port Moody on a gray drizzly day. As I rode the Skytrain into Vancouver for a California wine tasting, the sky got progressively clearer and brighter. The California Wine Fair had obviously brought some sunny weather along to compliment their wines.
Most wine drinkers are familiar with California wines as they are responsible for 90% of the wine made in the US. With more than 1000 wineries in over AVAs (American Viticultural Areas), there is no shortage of wines to try.
Now when most people think California and wine they most likely think Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon and Zinfandel and rightly so as the state is famous for these wines. My plan for this event was to look for lesser-known, interesting wines if I could find them. There were well over 140 wineries represented with likely more than 1000 wines to taste, so it was a daunting, if not impossible, task to taste even one varietal from every winery. As soon as I got my booklet and map, just minutes before the event began, I quickly ticked off the wineries I wanted to sample.
At the same time, it is always wise to ask colleagues and acquaintances what wines have impressed them. This is often how I find the ‘hidden treasures’. What follows is a small selection of some stand out wines of the day.
Birichino – Santa Cruz Mountains
Malvasia Bianca 2014 Monterey – Wow! Packed with flavour. Love this wine.
Besson Vignes Centenaires Grenache 2013 – 100 year old vines. Elegant.
Bonny Doon – Santa Barbara
Gravitas 2014 – Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc. Well made with a touch of Orange Muscat
A Proper Claret 2014 – traditional blend with a touch of Tannat to make it interesting.
Le Cigare Volant 2010 – Rhone styled blend. Very good.
Chateau St Jean
La Petite Etoile, Fume Blanc 2013 – excellent nose, lingering finish
Robert Young Chardonnay 2012 – well made, good structure
Bijou Rosé 2015 – Pinot Noir, dry and elegant
Cinq Cepages, Red Blend 2012 – Cabernet Sauvignon dominant, earthy, long finish
Dierberg & Star Lane Vineyards – Santa Barbara
Star Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2014 – ripe fruit and good structure
Dierberg Chardonnay 2013 – well made, crisp, elegant in the mouth
Flowers Vineyards & Winery – Bodega Bay, high altitude
Chardonnay 2014 Sonoma Coast – excellent wine, nice oak / fruit integration, delicious
Pinot Noir 2012 Sea View Ridge – Burgundian in style, impressive
Hess Collection Winery
Chardonnay 2013 Napa Valley – classic California chard with better structure than most
19 Block Mountain Cuvee Red Blend 2012 Mount Veeder – layered with dark fruit
Mumm Napa
Brut Prestige Carneros – Chardonnay / Pinot Noir, bright, clean, citrus, good mousse
Palmaz Vineyards – use steamed, not toasted barrels
Chardonnay 2014, Napa Valley – lighter in colour, well made, good integration
Cedar Knoll Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 – impressive, layered, lingering finish
Pedroncelli Winery
Sauvignon Blanc 2012 – mouthwatering with luscious fruit, excellent value
Quady
Starboard Batch 88 – Tinta Roriz, good California spin on traditional Port
Vya Sweet Vermouth – very tasty with good bitters, impressive
Schramsberg Vineyards
Blanc de Noirs 2012 – good structure, crisp, pleasing fruit, delicious
Brut Rosé 2013 – toasty and delicious, loved it.
Signorello Vineyards
Hope’s Cuvee Estate Chardonnay 2014 – outstanding.
Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 2012 – still a little grippy, richly layered nose, very good
Fuse Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 – excellent, will age beautifully
Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars – Napa Valley
AVETA Sauvignon Blanc 2014 – ripe stone fruit, good balance, medium+ finish
KARIA Chardonnay 2014 – excellent nose
Stags’ Leap Winery
Viognier 2014 – elegant, subtle, floral and stone fruit, medium-long finish
As it was, there weren’t too many niche wines there that day and the ones I did find were very good. The most pleasant surprise of the day was how well balanced the wines were. Yes, there were some Chardonnays that were overripe tropical fruit, butter and heavy oak, but for the most part, most of the ones I tried were well balanced and elegant. Likewise, for the Cabernets. This was reassuring; given some of the challenges California faces these days and only goes to speak to the passion and skill of the winemakers to make the very best wines they can.
