Nestled at the foot of the Alps in northwestern Italy, Piedmont—Piemonte in Italian, meaning “at the foot of the mountains”—is one of the country’s most complex and storied wine regions. Bordered by the Alps to the north and west and the Apennines to the south, its dramatic landscape creates a mosaic of mesoclimates that have shaped viticulture for centuries. The rolling hills of Langhe, Monferrato, and Roero are dotted with small family estates, many of them rooted in generations of winemaking tradition.
While Piemonte is internationally celebrated for Nebbiolo-based Barolo and Barbaresco, the region is also home to an extraordinary range of indigenous grape varieties.
A recent tasting at Franco’s Liquor Store in Kelowna highlighted four wines that showcase a different, but equally compelling, side of this renowned wine region.
Cortese
Native to southeastern Piemonte and the grape behind the celebrated wines of Gavi, Cortese produces crisp, elegant whites marked by citrus notes, mineral character, and refreshing acidity. It is often considered Piemonte’s definitive aperitivo wine.
Arneis
Once on the brink of extinction, this historic variety from the Roero district has experienced a remarkable revival. Arneis offers delicate floral aromas, stone fruit flavours, and a subtle almond-like bitterness on the finish. Its name, which translates from the Piedmontese dialect as “little rascal,” reflects the grape’s reputation for being challenging to cultivate.
Dolcetto
Despite its name, which means “little sweet one,” Dolcetto produces dry red wines. Long regarded as Piemonte’s everyday table wine, it is known for its deep colour, moderate acidity, soft tannins, and flavours of black cherry, plum, and a pleasantly bitter finish often reminiscent of almonds or dark chocolate.
Barbera
The most widely planted red grape variety in Piemonte, Barbera is prized for its vibrant acidity, deep ruby colour, and generous dark fruit character. Traditionally enjoyed as an approachable food wine, modern vineyard practices and winemaking have elevated Barbera to new levels of quality and complexity, making it one of the region’s most versatile and compelling reds.
Together, these four varieties reveal the remarkable diversity of Piemonte beyond its famous Nebbiolo wines. Each offers a distinct expression of the region’s history, landscape, and enduring winemaking traditions.
The wines in our flight:
Villa Sarina, Gavi 2024 $30.99
Villa Sparina is one of Gavi’s benchmark estates, farming over 55 hectares across the prestigious Monterotondo district. Crafted entirely from estate-grown Cortese and fermented in stainless steel to preserve freshness, the 2024 opens with aromas of white peach, lemon zest, and white flowers. The palate is lively and precise with clean minerality and a satisfying bitter almond finish – classic Cortese at its best. A good match for seafood crudo, grilled fish, lighter pasta, fresh antipasta, apertivio.
Passato Organic Roero Arneis 2024 $27.99
Produced organically from vines on the sandy, calcareous soils of the Roero hills – the lesser-known northern bank of the Tanaro River, directly across from Langhe. Looser soils give this Arneis aromatic intensity and a slightly richer texture than many Langhe expressions. Fragrant pear, apricot, and wild herbs lead to the variety’s characteristic pleasantly bitter finish. Serve with Charcuterie, aged goat cheese, gnocchi with sage butter, vegetable antipasti.
Chionetti Dogliani San Luigi Organic 2023 $32.99
Chionetti is a legendary name in Dogliani, the hill town in the southern Langhe that arguably produces the finest Dolcetto in all of Piedmont. The San Luigi is organically famed in the estate’s classic style: bright ruby-purple with aromas of black cherry, wild blueberry, violets, and a subtle earthy character. Juicy and medium-bodied with silky tannins and the grape’s signature bitter cherry and dark chocolate finish – Dolcetto at its most pure and honest. A good match for pasta al ragu, pizza, charcuterie, roasted vegetables, hard mountain cheeses, and braised meats.
G.D. Vajra Barbera d’ Alba 2024 $42.99
G.D. Vajra is one of the Langhe’s most admired estates, farming biodynamically across historic holdings in Vergne, a high-altitude village in the Barolo commune. Deep ruby with aromas of ripe black cherry, dark plum, crushed rose, and a whisper of spice. The naturally high acidity keeps the wine vivid and energetic, while the generous 2024 vintage contributes a warm, approachable fruit weight that makes this immediately irresistible. Lovely with tomato-based pasta, grilled and braised meats, aged Parmigiano-Reggiano, and hearty vegetable dishes.
(All photos – Sam Hauck)