Soupe aux Moules de Mamie Suzanne*
Between the time this recipe was submitted and it was scheduled for publication Mamie Suzanne passed away. The family were asked if they wanted to halt the post and this is their heartfelt response. “JF sees it as a wonderful legacy.” We agree and so we are pleased to be able to honour Chef Suzanne Quaglia’s memory with this fabulous Soupe aux Moules recipe.
Enjoy!
This recipe is somewhat labour intensive and quite costly. But the result is sublime! It’s a meal in itself that would be great after a day of skiing or hiking. It can be made a day in advance.
*Note: ‘mamie’ is a Provencal term of endearment roughly translated as ‘ Mama.’ Suzanne is Suzanne Quaglia, Jean-Francis’ late mother and a well known chef in her own right – one of France’s first professional female chefs.
Serves 10 (it’s not worth it to make this recipe for less)
Ingredients;
To cook the mussels you will need;
6lbs fresh mussels, cleaned and debearded
1 litre white cooking
½ bunch fresh parsley
dried fennel stocks or fennel seeds
1 large onion chopped
For the soup you will need;
1 cup white cooking wine
1 large onion chopped
3 cloves garlic chopped
1 bunch parsley chopped
3 tbls butter
¼ cup tomato paste
1 ½ tsp saffron
2 bay leaves
¼ flour
dried fennel or fennel seeds (if using seeds tie them up in a little cheesecloth)
In a large stock pot, steam the mussels with the all the ingredients. After they are all open remove from the heat. Separate the mussels and the juice. Strain the juice into a container and set aside – DO NOT DISCARD THE MUSSEL WATER!
Count out enough whole mussels for garnish. About 3-4 per person. The rest can be puréed and set aside.
In your stock pot melt the butter and add the mix of garlic, onion and parsley. Sweat gently but do not colour. Add the bay leaves and fennel. Mix in the tomato paste, as well as the puréed mussels. Sprinkle the flour over the mixture. After the flour is mixed in pour in the mussel water. Add in the cooking wine as well. Allow to simmer on medium for approximately 15-20 minutes. Now add in the saffron. Allow to simmer for another 10 minutes. Check the seasoning. You will probably need some salt and pepper. Taste after each addition of s/p to get it just to your taste.
Serve with some garlic rubbed croutons and a little crème fraiche to spike it up, but this is totally optional. While you are enjoying this soup don’t forget to close your eyes and imagine you are in the South of France!
Chef Suzanne Quaglia, of Marseilles’ famed Le Patalain, one of the very first female chefs in France. Her restaurant, Le Patalain, received two ‘Toques’ from Gault and Millau (their version of the star) and three ‘Couverts’ from Michelin (the highest level just below the star) plus one Star from Bottin Gourmand — the highest rating of any restaurant in Marseilles.
Chef Quaglia was much beloved by Vancouver diners who would flock to Provence whenever she came to visit her son and cook. Through a media event at Provence, she met and became great friends with James Barber. They were truly soul mates. As he spoke fluent French, James would take Suzanne on food trips – introducing her to the delights of Chinatown and the Fisherman’s Wharf. She thought our ocean bounty was some of the best in the world.
Anyone wishing to pay tribute to Chef Suzanne may do so by making a donation to Les Dames d’Escoffier – BC Chapter Scholarship Fund.
