Introducing Finca La Celia with Federico Colombo
Do you think you know Argentine Malbec? Think again.
Last week, I sat down with Federico Colombo, winemaker and brand ambassador for Finca La Celia. The historic estate dates back to 1890, when founder Eugenio Bustos reportedly traded his best horse for Malbec vines and introduced them to Mendoza’s Uco Valley. Named after his daughter, La Celia produces a style of Malbec known for elegance, freshness, and balance rather than sheer power and body—a style that aligns well with the growing consumer preference for lighter, fresher, fruit-driven wines.
Mendoza can be broadly divided into three main winegrowing areas: the First Zone, known for more powerful, full-bodied wines; the East Zone, which has traditionally focused on higher-volume production; and the Uco Valley, which has established a reputation for high-quality red and white wines. About 100 kilometers from Mendoza city and close to the Andes, the Uco Valley benefits from high elevation, an arid continental climate, and diverse alluvial soils.
This unique terroir creates a large diurnal temperature range. During the growing season, days can reach 25–28°C, while nights drop to around 10–12°C. This helps the grapes ripen and develop flavour while preserving natural acidity, resulting in wines that are ripe and expressive yet fresh and elegant. But temperature is only part of the story. Colombo also highlighted the diversity of soils across La Celia’s expansive 400-hectare vineyard. Spanning three sub-regions, the vineyard’s soils are shaped by alluvial and colluvial deposits from the Andes, ranging from shallow, rocky calcareous soils to deeper sandy-silt deposits. These differences affect drainage, root development, and vine vigour—and ultimately the character of the wines.
This means Malbec can take on distinctly different expressions within the La Celia vineyard, depending on where it is planted—from floral, mineral, red-fruited wines to fuller styles with darker fruit and more pronounced tannins. This variety is central to La Celia’s blending philosophy and allows the winery to produce a range of styles from the same estate.
We tasted two of La Celia’s wines:
2023 Malbec Cabernet Franc Reserva
At 70% Malbec and 30% Cabernet Franc, this wine offers a juicy, medium-bodied palate with fresh raspberry and violet notes, complemented by light, approachable tannins. Designed to be an accessible, food-friendly, value-driven wine, it suits pasta dishes, lighter grilled meats, or even served slightly chilled for a refreshing picnic.
2023 Malbec Cabernet Franc Reserva
Made from 100% Malbec, the Elite has a medium ruby hue with darker fruit flavors, floral notes, fresh herbs, and earthy mineral complexity. Soft, silky tannins give the wine a more refined texture and greater depth. Positioned higher in Finca La Celia’s quality hierarchy, the wine reflects selective vineyard sourcing and a greater emphasis on high-altitude terroir expression. It would pair beautifully with grilled steak or roasted game.
When asked about climate change and sustainability, Colombo said warmer conditions have prompted earlier harvesting, canopy management, and sun protection. He stressed that there’s no fixed formula—today, winemakers must continually adapt to each vintage. On the sustainability side, La Celia focuses on conserving water and energy through practices such as drip irrigation and lighter packaging for transport. Interestingly, a 2012 study published in Food Quality and Preference found that consumers tend to associate heavier wine bottles with higher price and quality. So, the next time you pick up a bottle, keep that in mind—heavier doesn’t necessarily mean better—but it does leave a higher carbon footprint.
Overall, Colombo’s presentation illustrated why the Uco Valley has become one of Argentina’s most exciting wine regions. It’s a place capable of producing Malbec that is not simply powerful and full-bodied, but and expressive of its high-altitude terroir, while maintaining a strong connection to Argentina’s viticulture heritage.
La Celia Reserva Malbec/Cabernet Franc is now available at BC Liquor for $21.99.