When you stand in front of the shelves at a wine shop does your eye automatically search out your favourite varietals? Merlot? Cab Sauv? Chardonnay? Or one of the Pinots—Noir or Gris? Or perhaps you prefer, as so many do, Bordeaux blends.
It’s easy to fall into purchasing patterns, searching out the safe and certain to satisfy, but we also lose out on the chance for surprisingly pleasurable experiences when we don’t push our shopping boundaries.
The trap extends even to visits to my wine cellar when I go down to make a selection for dinner. I usually have a general idea of what I am looking for and tend to ignore the bottles I pull out that don’t fit what I have in mind. But every once in a while I remind myself that we bought all of our wines for a reason. Almost all of our wines are purchased directly from the winery and we have, of course, tasted them before making our selections. So I know there are none that we didn’t enjoy at the time.
This topic came to mind a few week back when I made way up the staircase carrying a bottle from a visit a year and a half ago to the Shuswap area. We had a lovely visit at Larch Hills Winery, not least because I was smitten by winery owners who were so committed to growing varietals that are ideal for their cool climate location. Jack and Hazel Manser didn’t fall for what is always a strong temptation to make wines that are big sellers throughout the province. No plantings of Merlot or Syrah in the hope that they will ripen, if only the conditions are ideal from spring through fall.
The bottle I chose was Lemberger, the unfortunately named grape that makes one think of a very tangy and aromatic blue cheese. Back in our U-Brew winemaking days Lemberger was a favourite, but we haven’t had much since. We were immediately struck by the brilliant red colour and fresh, fruity nose. The flavour of black cherries and spices was truly satisfying. Larch Hills makes wine from other cool climate grapes—Marechal Foch, Madeline Angevine and Ortega, too. During our visit we didn’t taste anything we didn’t enjoy.
It was a similar experience a few miles away at Recline Ridge, where the vineyard includes red varieties like Gamay Noir, Foch, Zwiegelt and Blaufrankisch, and whites that include Ortega, Kerner, Bacchus and Siegerrebe. In the hands of a capable winemaker, all of these grapes produce very satisfying wines.
Talk to a winery owner who produces these hybrids and lesser known varietals and you will inevitably learn that the names of the grapes are the single biggest hurdle in their marking efforts. Germanic names tend to have less appeal to the general public than French names. It’s a shame, because when we shop by name we limit ourselves and miss out on the joy of new and different taste sensations.
Cool climate wines are also popular in the Kelowna area, and we have had some quite wonderful tastings at wineries like Gray Monk, Quail’s Gate, Arrowleaf, Ancient Hill, Summerhill, Volcanic Hills and Mount Boucherie. At Ancient Hill, on the hill overlooking the Kelowna airport, owner Richard Kamphuys makes an amazing blend he calls Lazarus. It includes Zweigelt, Lemberger, Pinot Noir and Baco Noir. And his 2012 Rose is an unusual and very appealing blend of Baco Noir and Gewurztraminer.
On Kelowna’s west side, we fell in love with the Volcanic Hills Gamay Noir years ago, and not only because it was, and still is, one of the best wine values in the province. It’s a very nice summer wine when lightly chilled and also goes beautifully with a lot of poultry dishes. Next door at Mount Boucherie, many very good cool climate wines are produced.
Further south, one of our most memorable discoveries was of a white wine from Ehrenfelser grapes. We were visiting Lake Breeze Vineyards on the Naramata Bench, doing a tasting before heading out for lunch on the spectacular patio when we first tasted Ehrenfelser. It’s slightly off-dry, which can be slightly off-putting for fans of dry wines like Angela and me. But the balance of acidity and tropical fruit flavours made it an instant favourite.
Here in the Creston Valley, Skimmerhorn Winery has made great fans with its Marechal Foch, Ortega and Gewurztraminer vintages. Next door at Baillie-Grohman Estate Winery is proving that cool climate wines can grow beautifully on a property that is also producing superb Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes.
With the holiday season nearing and plenty of socializing to be done, do yourself a favour and take a closer look at unfamiliar labels and grape varieties when you are shopping this year. Chances are you will make some pleasant discoveries. And that, as Martha says, is a good thing.
I would like to wish readers of La Dolce Vita a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year. May you stay safe and happy throughout the holidays.
