The French Table redefines Classic French Dining

By now you have probably heard about the ups and downs of the re-opening of The French Table. In his own words:

“It’s been a rollercoaster,” says Hervé Martin. “I was fully prepared to retire and step away from the restaurant, but the circumstances changed quickly. Now, I’m eager to get back in the kitchen and welcome our guests back to The French Table.”

After learning about the re-opening I thought it was time to revisit the popular, neighbourhood restaurant located on Main Street near 23rd Avenue. An Eastside Vancouver staple. But don’t be surprised if you had not heard about this little gem, as it did tend to fly a bit under the radar. Locals liked that aspect of this classic French restaurant, it meant they could more easier secure their favourite table on a weekend. But like all good things you can’t keep it a secret forever.

Last night hubby and I decided to venture over to the Eastside for some good comfort food.

We began with a welcoming glass of Champagne, compliments of Hervé who stopped by our table to tell us his story of retirement expectations and the resulting re-opening of The French Table.

The word is out The French Table is open again and welcoming both old time, regular patrons but also hosting guests who are trying it for either the first time or who are returning after some time. One thing remains the same and that’s the welcome atmosphere and the really good classic French food. I can’t emphasize that description enough, good classic French food. If, like me, you are a fan of this more traditional bistro fare this is the place for you.

We started with escargot, one traditional served with baguette, the other a combo of mullosks and mushrooms topped with a delicate and rich feuilletage, or puff pastry, (I just like the sound of the French translation) swimming in a butter garlic bath. Both were delicious and I’m glad we decided to try the feuilletage version. It was as unique as it savoury.

We hadn’t planned to have a big meal but we were very tempted by last night’s special menu items which included Beef Wellington, a filet of beef layered pâté de foie gras and wrapped in puff pastry or the Salmon Wellington layered with mushrooms that release their juices during the baking process that result in a finished salmon that is moist and cooked to perfection. Both of these dishes would have been an excellent choice and we were definitely tempted.

Instead hubby went with the tried and true, his favourite, moules et frites, the mussels were succulent and the fries crisp, served with mayonaisse on the side for dipping. The mussels are fresh and local, coming from Vancouver Island.

For myself I could not resist one of the specials of the day, Lobster Bisque. Superb, so rich, thick and just plain delicious with a slightly spicey finish. I was in heaven. This was perfect for a fall evening.

The clientele at The French Table is a diverse mix of in the know diners; young couples, groups of friends and families. At the table next to ours a family of four celebrating the youngest son’s birthday with moules et frites and fondue au fromage. At The French Table there is something for everyone no matter how diverse your taste may be. There is something very special about classic French.

Of course it was impossible to pass on dessert so an ideal ending to a lovely evening, Crème Caramel with sliced almonds and whipped cream. Over the top, shared between the two of us it was the best ending.

The wine list is extensive but we had no trouble choosing an outstanding Sancerre. New to the wine list the wine was excellent and paired with the dishes very well.

Hubby remarked that The French Table reminded him of Le Grand Colbert as featured in the film Something’s Got To Give, the ending scene with Diane Keaton, Keanu Reeves and Jack Nicholson. The vibe is definitely there but I would disagree after having visited Le Grand Colbert in 2001. Even before the movie it was a popular and well known restaurant patronized by politians and fashion models, more a see and be seen place, as opposed to a good place to dine. No, for me The French Table brings pleasantly reminiscent thoughts of my favourite Paris bistro, Le Café Tiquetonne in the quiet pedestrian area of La rue Montorgueil in the 2nd arrondissement.

So whether you’ve ever been to Paris, or not, you can’t go wrong with a visit to The French Table, it’s a classic experience you will want to repeat again and again. Reservations are recommended at this delightful Eastside neighbourhood French restaurant with its comfy banquette seating.

Surprisingly, there are still a few opportunities for holiday bookings in December, contact the restaurant directly at (604) 689-3237 or by visiting thefrenchtable.ca.

The cost of Dinner, not including the complimentary two glasses of Champagne or the complimentary, shared dessert ($11. on the menu) the total was $215.00 (including a bottle of wine at $90. plus tax). So a fast calculation we spent about $100. for two escargot appetizers, one moules et frites and a bowl of lobster bisque. That amounts to $50. each for food, so a reasonable price for the value and quality. We left a gratuity of $54.00 (about 20% of our estimated total cost including the Champagne and dessert).