What’s Trending in France? Vancouver International Wine Festival Lecture Series
Is France still a trend setter? Do we want them to be “ modern” with their wine making?, do they want to be modern or traditionalists? Can they be both?
This was a lively discussion of some of France’s most respected winemakers and producers as they gathered in Vancouver to host the 2014 wine festival and to share their thoughts about the future of French wine here in BC. Thirty years ago France represented almost 90% of the import market in BC, now this number has dropped to 8%. Every country is trying to make great wine, inspired by the great wines of France but there is only so much shelf space, so what is the answer for the French to rekindle the love affair with BC’s wine drinkers?
Here are some of my tasting notes as well as a brief account of some of the changes that these producers have made.
Lanson, Champagne, Extra Age Brut, NV: $84.99
Anytime, any occasion, there is no bad time to drink Champagne. Celebrating 250 years, Lanson is the fourth oldest Champagne house and remains family owned. Pinot Noir dominated and mostly Grand Cru, boasting the longest relationship between a winemaker and Champagne house; 42 years and counting.
Pale straw colour, aromas of lemon, apple, yogurt, bisquits, winter pear and flint. A Light delicate mousse and creamy mouthfeel with a powerful impact, but freshness of fruit with a lingering crisp finish. A blend from 3 great vintages: 2000, 2002 and 2004, with 60% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay. Disgorged July 2013: aged 5 years in the bottle. Perfect with mushroom risotto. Can age 10 plus years.
Domaine Joseph Mellot, Pouilly-Fumè, Le Tronsec, Loire, 2012: $29.99
This property has remained a family owned business for the past 500 years; tradition and modernity now go hand in hand. Olivier Revain, Managing Director, explains that “in 2006 Joseph Mellot was the first in France to introduce screw caps, and this was considered to be a strong choice in order to go forward, to maintain freshness. It was a technical choice which was later to become a marketing decision.” Sancerre, Pouilly Fume, or Mentou Salon, despite the fact that they are made from Sauvignon Blanc all taste differently because of their terroir: “ It is about the purity of the fruit and the terroir from which they came”.
Pale straw colour, intense aromas of gooseberry, lemon, fresh herbs and a distinct minerality reminiscent of flint. The palate is an explosion of flavours of gooseberries, granny smith apples, and lemons which are smooth and well balanced with a long crisp mineral finish.
Gérard Bertrand, IGP Aude Hauterive, Domaine de Cigalus White, Languedoc, 2012: $51.99
Winemaker Stephan Querault, explains that “this producer is now in their 11th vintage making biodynamic wines, which give 1.5% more acidity, “more vibration in the wine” which translates into less sulphites”. The Languedoc area has traditionally been known for bulk wine production but is increasingly promoting their terroir with premium and super premium wines.
Bright lemon, aromas of ripe stone fruit, straw, butter and rich toasted oak. This full bodied wine has flavours of baked apples, peach, and toast with a long creamy finish. It is a blend of 70% Chardonnay, 20% Viogner, and 10% Sauvignon Blanc; 50% new French Oak and 50% in stainless tanks. This wine can take up to 2 days to reach the perfect blend. Drink now or hold for 5 plus years.
Les Vignerons de Buzet, Buzet, “Sans” Sulphites Ajoutés, Southwest France, 2012: $19.95
This wine is made from a cooperative cellar sharing common values of sustainable development and less sulphites, a move them made after sending out a questionnaire to their customers asking what they want in a wine. What a novel idea!
Sulphites help stabilize a wine, so without them this brings about other challenges, such as how to ship across the world? Like many other innovations, it is the first step that is important and there is no doubt that consumers like this idea; It is just the beginning of a new trend.
Dark ruby, aromas of ripe cherries, raspberry, fresh herbs and red currants. Flavours are of ripe berries with soft, light tannins and crisp acidity with a good length. It is a young wine which is very fruit forward but with time can develop some depth and complexity. This is a Bordeaux blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc, which given the right cellaring conditions, could age as well as a fine Bordeaux.
Maison Louis Latour, Corton Grand Cru, Château Corton Grancey, Bourgogne, 2010: $149.99
Mark Allen from Maison Louis Latour announced that the French government has put forth an application to have the wine region of Burgundy inscribed to the World Heritage list, putting them on the forefront of preserving their terroir and heritage. “It is not about trends, it is about what is right for the region, the best way of creating heritage for their children”.
Ruby in colour, aromas of cherry, raspberry, strawberry, cassis and hint of liquorice on the palate. Light bodied with delicate but complex flavours of red berries, rose, hints of leather, smoke and mint with soft silky tannins and a long elegant finish. This is a focused and precise wine which will age gracefully for 20 years but is drinking well now.
Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Pauillac, Château Clerc Milon, Bordeaux, 2007: $88.00
A new Clerc Milon evolved in two stages: In 2007 the Left Bank estate constructed a new vat room which was entirely gravity-fed; then in 2011 a half-underground barrel hall, cellar, tasting and reception rooms. Estate is based on a green philosophy, where energy is provided by the 300 square meters of photovoltaic cells on the roof top. Chateau Clerc has received the first HQE (High Environmental Quality) certification in the Bordeaux wine making region.
Dark ruby with intense aromas of leather, spice, cedar, tobacco, black cherry and chocolate. This full bodied wine has a seductive and concentrated palate of earthy black fruits, fine grained tannins and a long velvety length.
M. Chapoutier, Hermitage, Monier de la Sizeranne, Rhône, 2010: $99.99
At the age of only 26, Michel Chapoutier transformed his family’s winery and became one of the regions most highly regarded winemakers in France. The highly sought-after appellation of Hermitage is named after the tiny chapel at the vineyards highest (once home to hermits). The hilltops of Hermitage are peppered with very dense terroir of steep southerly facing terraces with soils comprised of gravel, limestone and clay which give intense richness and complexity to the wines. La Sizeranne has become a benchmark wine for the region, where Syrah achieves its noblest expression.
Deep ink in colour with aromas of blackberry, dried cherry, spice, vanilla, mushroom, leather, raspberry, sweet spice, dried herbs, The palate is full bodied but elegant with ripe berry flavours, sweet spice, olive, liquorice, pepper, hints of floral and dried herbs with silky tannins and a long gentle finish. Drinking beautifully now but can hold 10 plus years.
Château de la Gardine, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Cuvèe Peur Bleue, Rhône, 2010: $69.99
A natural wine with no sulphites and no oak, gives this wine more purity of fruit and room for diversity. This style is one made by “pure pioneers” where the viticulturist is the star; The rest is just natural chemistry. Due to the absence of sulphites, this wine is more fragile and must be kept at the right cellaring temperature)
Dark garnet with intense aromas of black berry, black cherry, lavender, black olive and provençal herbs. Grippy, mouth coating tannins with maximum fruit expression of liquorice, preserved red and black fruits and chocolate with well integrated alcohol and a long finish.
Peur Bleue means “scared to death”: 1/3 Grenache, 1/3 Syrah, 1/3 Mouvedre. Grown on the western side of Châteauneuf-du-pape on limestone soils with more minerality and a cooler microclimate. Whole cluster fermentation, vinified and stored in stainless steel.
Hugel & Fils, Alsace, Hommage à Jean Hugel, Gewurztraminer, 1998: $47.95
Etienne Hugel; a 12th generation descendant describes the family business as “traditional but with a new sense of modernity, using 100% diam corks to prevent cork taint (TCA) and very active with social networking”. Hugel & Fils export 90% of their wines to 108 countries worldwide, with Canada representing the 3rd largest market. They have been represented in BC for 40 years.
Deep straw yellow, with a bouquet that is an explosion of perfumes; aromas of lychee, rose petals, apricot, honey and vanilla, but with elegance. The palate is medium dry, opulent but mellow and juicy with ripe mango and apricot.
Fantastic with asian foods, fois gras and fruit cake. Grown on almost pure clay and alluvial soils from 100 % Grand Cru sites.
