Usually I like to dine twice at any resturant before I write a review, but often this is not possible. This time it was my second time reviewing Ugly Duckling. The first time I had the honour of reviewing the exclusive L’Abattoir x | Ugly Duckling | Gastown Meets Chinatown last November.
Two champions of West Coast cuisine unite as Vancouver’s L’Abattoir brings its French-inflected flair to Victoria’s innovative Chinatown hotspot, Ugly Duckling For one night only, Victoria diners experienced the thrill of dining with one of Vancouver’s best restaurants — without crossing the Strait of Georgia.
In the L’Abattoir | Ugly Duckling review I wrote: “And what a night it was!”
I honestly didn’t think that Chef Corbin could possibly exceed our experience from that memorable dinner in November. I was hoping for, and expecting, a similar level of excellence. That’s not what we experienced. No, we experienced a dinner that exceeded all expectations. I do not know how Chef accomplished this miraculous feat but somehow he really did.
Every course was perfection on the plate, and I mean, every, course. The dishes just seemed to be evaluated beyond imagination, Every dish told a story of origin and execution of expertise. It was truly overwhelming. If you have not had the opportunity to dine at Ugly Duckling in Victoria’s Chinatown, you owe it to yourself to do so, soon.
Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country brought the warmth and flavours of the South Okanagan to Vancouver Island with Savour the Sun Victoria, an intimate wine dinner in partnership with Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions highlighting a night of delicious wines, creative dishes and a celebration of local ingredients and winemaking.
The evening showcased a curated lineup of wineries based in Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country: Bordertown Estate Winery, Castoro de Oro Estate Winery, Domaine Artema Winery and Tinhorn Creek Vineyards. Winery principals including winemaker Stefanie Dylla of Domaine Artema Winery and Stella Schmidt, owner of Castoro de Oro Estate Winery, will share stories with guests alongside a selected wine from their portfolios, featuring both new releases and library selections.
Chef Corbin Mathany worked closely with the winemakers to craft a multi-course menu that brings out the best in each wine while showcasing fresh, seasonal ingredients with his signature flair.
“Partnering with Ugly Duckling allows us to bring the spirit of our beautiful region to Victoria in a truly meaningful way,” says Jennifer Busmann, Executive Director of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country. “This dinner is about celebrating craftsmanship – from the vineyards to the kitchen – and creating a memorable evening that connects guests with the people and places behind the wines.”
Ugly Duckling has established itself as one of Vancouver Island’s most innovative dining experiences. Recognized as one of Victoria’s leading restaurants, Chef Mathany’s menus celebrate its historic Chinatown home with handcrafted, inventive dishes and genuine service.
Now it’s time to introduce the dishes that were served at the Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country and Victoria’s Ugly Duckling Special Collaboration Dinner on Wednesday, February 25th. The evening started with a welcome glass of bubbly from Culmina Winery, Perle de Rosé.
SAVOUR THE SUN MENU
Chawanmushi with sunchoke, trout roe and scallion
The Chawanmushi was a rich, creamy delight that made for the perfect first course. Combined with the richness of the Chawanmushi was the deliciously salty salmon roe that popped in your mouth with each tasty bite. The crispy sunchoke provided the ideal juxtaposition with the creamy and salty flavours. The dish was garnished with fresh Geranium leaves adding another element of colour.
Paired with Domaine Artema Winery 2024 Pinot Gris Cru
Opening with heavenly scents, a touch of dusty rose, a hint of Jasmine and light stone fruits. The wine showed a lovely golden hue in the glass. Delightful flavours of citrus and a touch of peach. Nicely herbaceious. The wine showed good body. The savoury notes of the dish paired very well with the Pinot Gris.
Braised Parry Bay Lamb Shoulder Tortelli with black garlic, cured egg yolk and marigold
The Braised Parry Bay Lamb Shoulder Tortelli had me at first whiff. The aroma was so good it was heavenly. Just like what Nonna would make. The lamb was ccompanied by shredded cabbage, and if you don’t like cabbage, you haven’t tried this cabbage because it works perfectly with the slightly gamey, and fabulous, flavour of the lamb shoulder. The Tortellini was ideal for balancing the rich lamb ragu. This dish was a winner.
Paired with Castoro de Oro Estate Winery 2022 Merlot
The wine was slightly chilled which was very pleasant, juicy and quite delicious. Rich, deep and mellow with dark plum, ripe fruit and blackberry. Good acidity with very light tannins. In the mouth, opening with flavours of cranberry, plum torte and some delicious citrus and red grapefruit. The wine had a density that walks a balance between lean and rich that pairs nicely with the lamb.
Butter-poached Haida Gwaii Halibut with celeriac, black truffle and miso
This dish was nothing short of amazing. The halibut had an every so slight smoked flavour and was amazingly moist, dense yet just flaked apart with the touch of your fork, just incredible. I couldn’t believe it was halibut because it was so rich and the texture sublime. The flavourful accompanying celeriac adds a new dimension of crisp and freshness. The sauce was subtle and at the same time decadent. A masterpiece.
Paired with Tinhorn Creek Vineyards 2023 Reserve Chardonnay
The wine presented with fruity notes of stonefruit and minimal oak scents. Fresh and delicate with white peach. On the nose limestone, chalk and clay with wood chip in the background. On the palate there is light oak and great acidity. The wine is mellow and dense but also has some lightness from the pleasant flavours of citrus on the finish. A perfect pairing.
Dry-aged Fraser Valley Duck Breast with five-spice, toasted barley and duck confit tartlet
This is a dish I never get tired of. The Fraser Valley duck breast was cooked perfectly with that balance of medium topped against a salty, crispy skin. That’s heaven for duck breast gourmands. So tender, juicy, flavourful and succulent. The tartlet provides a texture balance with the slight crunch of the tartlet shell, flavourful duck confit and the creamy sun chokes topped with the toasted barley. This dish delivered on flavour, texture, and tenderness enhanced by a delicious port jus. I said it before but it’s worth repeating – beyond comparison.
Paired with Bordertown Estate Winery 2019 Cabernet Franc
The wine opened with rich, red, ripe berries, cherries and blackberries and exhibits some floral notes along with plum. A very nice wine with exceptional acidity which worked so well with the richness of the duck breast. A superb pairing for an outstanding dish.
Vancouver Island Hazelnut Crèmeux with milk chocolate and burdock
If you think you are too full for dessert you haven’t had the right dessert put in front of you. No one could say no to this decadent vision of creamy goodness matched by the chocolatey cake like brownie enchanced by the flavour of the crunchy hazelnuts. Everything about this dessert was just right. If you haven’t heard of burdock you’re not alone. A brave choice. I had to google to find out more , apparently a noxious weed whose burrs inspired Velcro! Who knew, but obviously Chef Corbin knew how to tame this often bitter plant into something special. A dessert that features all the goodness that local brings to the table. I loved every delicious bite.
Paired with Domaine Artema La Petite Mort port-style
A very pleasant accompaniment to the chocolate and hazelnut in the dessert. This fortified, port-style wine presents with toasty hints of luscious caramel, marshmallow with a touch of molasses. In the glass a beautiful dark, ruby red. The La Petite Mort is a French expression describing the sensation of sexual ecstasy as a brief temporary death.¹
That ends this exceptional dining experience on an interesting and provocative note.
About Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country
Uncork the Sun in Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country and encounter colourful characters, award-winning wineries, and stunning scenery which all give this decorated region its unique glow. Situated at the very southern tip of British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley, in one of the warmest areas of Western Canada, the region’s wineries have won more accolades than any other wine region in Canada. The sunny slopes of Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country are also the perfect place to enjoy fine-dining with vineyard views, the opportunity to stay on a winery and wake up surrounded by vines, and to enjoy award-winning wine and food events and experiences, such as the Half Corked Marathon, Pig Out Festival Weekend and Savour the Sun wine dinners. For our full list of winery members, visit oliverosoyoos.com/category/
About Ugly Duckling Dining & Provisions
An edible celebration of Vancouver Island. A Love Letter to our Chinatown home.
Since opening in February of 2023, Ugly Duckling has made its mark as one of Vancouver Island’s best and most innovative dining experiences. Recognized as Victoria, BC’s Best New Restaurant by YAM Magazine, and long-listed as one of Canada’s Best New Restaurants for 2023 by Air Canada’s enRoute Magazine, we seek to create inventive and original dining experiences centered around the magical place we call home. At the heart of everything we do are two promises: to serve you only those things which we have made by hand; and to work relentlessly to make you smile. We can’t wait to welcome you. uglyducklingrestaurant.ca
To avoid disappointment reservaions are highly recommended, you may make your reservation here.
With thanks to the Oliver Osoyoos Wine Country and the attending winery members, Chef Corbin Mathany and his team, and Hawksworth Communications for the invitation. My critiques of the dishes and wine notes (in italics). Mine, and my guest’s dinner, was complimentary, including gratuities, to facilitate this review of the dinner and wines. Images: MyVanCity
¹La petite mort explanation courtesy of Google translations.
You can read my previous review of the L’Abattoir x Ugly Duckling | Gastown meets Chinatown here.