L’Abattoir x Ugly Duckling Collaborative Dinner
Two champions of West Coast cuisine unite as Vancouver’s L’Abattoir brings its French-inflected flair to Victoria’s innovative Chinatown hotspot, Ugly Duckling
For one night only, Victoria diners experienced the thrill of dining with one of Vancouver’s best restaurants — without crossing the Strait of Georgia.
And what a night it was! This was my first visit to the Ugly Duckling but I can assure you it won’t be my last. What an incredible evening of superb cuisine paired with some outstanding BC wines.
Ugly Duckling welcomed Executive Chef Jasper Cruickshank of L’Abattoir, Vancouver’s Gastown restaurant, for an exclusive six-course tasting menu celebrating the best of BC. The evening will blended the refined French techniques and West Coast sensibilities that define both restaurants with the Asian ingredients and creative inflections that have made Ugly Duckling one of Victoria’s most acclaimed dining destinations.
The evening definitely lived up to the hype. I had been wanting to try the Ugly Duckling for some time and I finally got the opportunity on Monday evening. This 30 seat restaurant is carving out an excellent reputation for quality and innovative cuisine.
A tasting menu is not something I indulge in very often, it is a special opportunty to experience the best of the best. This is a concept that exists at the Ugly Duckling whose nightly menu is always a tasting menu. Open Wednesday to Sunday.
Gastown meets Chinatown menu
house baked Milk Bread
A deliciously sweet confection served with miso, honey butter
This delightfully rich, yet light, house made Milk Bread was an excellent conversation starter as we shared and savoured. Breaking bread is a traditional celebration of life and embodies centuries of culinary heritage. It was the perfect start to our evening of sharing.
Beef Tartare
Totoro, fried shiso, oyster
This delicious bite was a treat for the mouth. The unique starter was served on a crunchy, tempura style fried Totoro leaf, with soft and flavourful Tartare. A sensation of flavours that were so pleasing we were left wanting more.
Tantalus Blanc de Noir 2022 East Kelowna Slopes
The Blanc de Noir was an ideal accompaniment to the Tartare, the effervescence highlighted the intense and delicious flavours and the acidity the perfect foil for the richness of this tantalizing dish.
Dungeness Crab
gem lettuce, soubise, crustacean bisque
What can I say about this dish…so good. I am a huge fan of Dungeness Crab and can never get enough. The Crab was so fresh and the accompaniments were spot on, never eclipsing the delicate flavours of the dish. The bisque was to die for, what a combination. We were two for two with these delectable bites.
Blue Mountain ‘Alluvium Reflection” Chardonnay Okanagan Falls
The Chardonnay mirrored the richness of the Dungeness Crab without dominating. Although quite oakey it was not overpowering. Rich and floral it was another excellent pairing. Served at something between chilled and room temperature allowing the flavours to be very approachable.
Golden Chanterelles
smoked potato, Taleggio
This dish was a true delight. From the perfect pasta to the tasty filling this was an unexpected vegetarioan dish served between two very rich seafood dishes. That’s quite a challenge but the flavours won the day. Packed into a pillowy soft pasta with a sauce that left you completely satisfied.
Averill Creek ‘Somemos’ Pinot Gris 2016 Cowichan Valley
A good choice for this fresh pasta dish. Sommelier Andrew Forsyth outdid himself with his wine pairings. The Pinot Gris had the right amount of acidity to pair nicely with the richness of the dish.
Sablefish
brussel sprouts, black truffle, shio kofi
Just one more dish I had been looking forward to. Sablefish done elegantly, deliciously moist and flavourful. It’s hard to beat a Sablefish when it comes to quality. Flaky and moist it was cooked just right. Definitely a bit hit that was enhanced by a surprising and innovative accompaniment of brussel sprout leaves. Just a touch of tang that really emphasized the overall quality of this dish.
Kutatas Pinot Gris 2024 Salt Spring Island
A pleasant pairing with the Sablefish that didn’t overpower the flavours of this delicate fish. Nice acidity that wored well with the richness of the Sablefish.
Magret Duck Breast
confit duck leg & porcini tartlet, sun choke, port jus
I am a Duck gourmand. There isn’t a duck dish I don’t absolutely love. This Magret Duck had just the time amount of gamey flavour to make it a most interesting dish. Crispy skin done to a T. If you are a Duck freak like me you would have been in heaven with this generous portion of flavour. Beyond comparison.
1 Mill Road ‘Home Block’ Pinot Noir 2023 Naramata
This was my first taste of a 1 Mill Road wine and it was worth the wait. A lovely, rich and ripe expression of the grape. The wine went so well with the richness of the Magret Duck Breast.
Glazed Salish Apple
white miso, oat, Chinese five spice
A beautiful finish to an incredible dinner. Reminiscent of mom’s baked apple dessert. Rich, not overly sweet and balanced with winter spice. The creamy ice cream set the stage for our final dish of the evening. A just right dessert following such a superb mix of flavours and textures throught our dining experience.
Nomad Ice Cider 2019 Summerland
A new to me treat of iced cider. The apple notes of the cider blended with the Apple dessert and enhanced the flavours in a pleasing way.
Well I’m a convert. Tasting menus are a wonderful way to dine. This was such an enjoyable evening that seemed to go by easily while we enjoyed every well prepared dish. The pace of the evening was ideal, leaving us time to reflect as we discussed and probed each other for our thoughts on the presentation and quality. There just are not enough words to describe what a terrific evening we enjoyed. Kudos to the chefs and the team for their efforts on our behalf.
Thanks also to Chef Jasper, Chef Corbin and Sommelier Andrew Forsyth for the wonderful dining experience and the great wine pairings.
The Ugly Duckling
Since opening in February of 2023, Ugly Duckling has made its mark as one of Vancouver Island’s best and most innovative dining experiences.
Recognized as Victoria, BC’s Best New Restaurant by YAM Magazine, and long-listed as one of Canada’s Best New Restaurants for 2023 by Air Canada’s En Route Magazine, we seek to create inventive and original dining experiences centered around the magical place we call home.
At the heart of everything we do are two promises: to serve you only those things which we have made by hand; and to work really, really hard to make you smile. We can’t wait to welcome you.
Our menu changes with the seasons, the farmers, and the whims of the culinary team.
Thank you to everyone who made this evening so exceptional. My comments and wine notes (in italics) about the Ugly Duckling courtesy of the restaurant. Photos: MyVanCity I received one complimentary dinner to facilitate this feature. Hubby came as my guest, his dinner cost $230., including wine pairings, with taxes and gratuities came to $300.